Some are growing tired of ’nduja. It’s in everything these days, so much so that not long ago Nigella Lawson advised Britain to remember its correct pronunciation by saying “’Nduja want to eat right now?” This joke led The Sun to call her “smug, pretentious… the tactless epitome of metropolitan privilege”, which seems very harsh to me.
’Nduja has become highly uncool in many upscale restaurants, which prefer using XO sauce these days, but it has staying power in that is so solid. Its ubiquity is only testament to its greatness, in fact.
Undeterred, ’nduja is now making its way around the country, tickling pastas, sandwiches and salads left, right and centre like some sort of demented Italian backpacker.
The chef Stevie Parle, owner of the brilliant pasta restaurant Pastaio, still messes about with ’nduja. Stevie also happens to know what to do with it –
properly. Used well, it delivers big flavours and layers.
Stevie uses ’nduja in his mussel and linguine dish, an enlivening combination and one that works for solo TV dinner and mates round until goodness knows.
“This recipe is a great example of how ’nduja can elevate your dish,” he says. “It takes mussels to whole new levels with its rich, spicy flavour, which is cut through with some fresh parsley and white wine. A brilliant special-occasion meal that is also very easy to whip up.”
MUSSEL AND ’NDUJA LINGUINE
SERVES 4
60ml olive oil
1 garlic clove, chopped
360g courgette, sliced into chunky matchsticks
400g linguine
40g ’nduja
800g mussels, cleaned
120ml white wine
A small bunch of parsley, leaves chopped
Warm the olive oil in a wide, deep pan (with a lid) and fry the garlic over a medium-low heat until it begins to colour on the edges. Stir in the courgette – use sweet, virtually seedless Grezzina courgettes from Italy if you can find them – and once it starts sizzling in the hot oil, turn the heat down to low and leave to cook for 5 minutes, stirring often, to allow it to soften.
Meanwhile, bring a pan of salted water to the boil and start cooking the linguine to al dente according to packet instructions.
Stir the ’nduja into the courgette and once it’s melted and the courgettes are
coated in red oil, turn the heat up to medium-high and add the mussels and the wine. Cover with a lid and cook for 4 minutes, shaking the pan occasionally, until all the mussels are open.
Drain the pasta, reserving a cup of the cooking water. Pour the cooked pasta into the mussel pan along with the parsley and toss well so all the strands are coated in sauce, adding a splash of pasta cooking water if you feel it needs it. Transfer to bowls and serve.
