Think of Denmark, think of Noma. In Copenhagen, the restaurant long supposed to be the world’s best is found, and so too are buoyant rivals to the crown: Alchemist is one; Geranium is another. But Denmark is also rich in street food and more accessible options, each going some way to tempering the Nordic seriousness. Kuku from Sean Pakbaz is a Persian vendor with plenty of fans. Find potato and chicken meatballs, curries with fluffy rice, and ghormeh sabzi – Iran’s national dish – a fragrant stew made with herbs.
1kg chuck roll from beef – cubed (you can use chicken or lamb as well)
100g dry red kidney beans boiled or 1 can of 420g (240g drained)
1 large yellow onion, finely chopped
4 bunches curly parsley
2 bunches coriander
2 bunches green onions (green parts only!)
2 tbsp dried fenugreek
4-5 dried lemons (limoo amani) or 3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
Salt and pepper to taste
Clean and wash the herbs, dry them thoroughly and chop finely in a food processor.
Heat 3tbsp of olive oil in a large skillet over medium heat and sauté the chopped fresh herbs for about 10-15 minutes, stirring frequently.
In a large stew pot, sauté chopped onions in 2tbsp of olive oil until they become golden brown.
Add the meat, turmeric, salt, pepper and fry until all sides are brown. Add the fried vegetables and dried lemons.
Pour in enough boiling water to cover the mixture by about 5cm, bring to a boil on high heat for just a couple of minutes, lower the heat, cover and cook on medium to low heat for 1 1/2 hours.
Taste and adjust the seasoning as necessary and add a little more water if needed. Add the kidney beans, reduce the heat to its lowest setting and simmer for another 30 minutes.
Notes: The longer ghormeh sabzi simmers, the better it tastes. If you are vegan, replace the meat with chopped mushrooms of your choice. Oyster mushrooms are recommended.